Atlas/Galdhøpiggen
N° 101
Galdhøpiggen
Highest in Northern Europe.
Difficulty 3/10
Elevation
2,469m
8,100 ft
First Ascent
1850
Steinar Sulheim, Lars Arnesen
Highest peak in Northern Europe. The Norwegian climbing community has used Galdhøpiggen as the primary domestic objective for substantial periods.
Best Season
June–September
Summit Days
1 day
Permits
Not required
Overview
A 2,469-metre peak in the Jotunheimen range of central Norway, the highest mountain in Norway and the highest in Northern Europe. Galdhøpiggen sits in a region of Scandinavian mountains that has not produced the international climbing tradition of the Alps but has functioned as a primary mountaineering destination within Norway and the Nordic countries for over a century. The peak is composed of metamorphic rock and is permanently snow-capped. The Styggebreen glacier on the eastern flank holds substantial ice that the standard route crosses.
The first ascent came in 1850 by a Norwegian party led by the Glittertind brothers. The summit was reached via the southern flank in a relatively straightforward climb. The standard route today follows the northeast face from the Spiterstulen mountain lodge at 1,107 metres, with the climb completable in a single day. The technical difficulty involves glacier travel across the Styggebreen, several sections of moderate snow climbing, and a final summit ridge with some exposure but no significant technical climbing. The fatality rate is low.
What Galdhøpiggen offers is the geographic position — the highest peak in Northern Europe, the standard reference point for Scandinavian mountaineering tradition. The peak has been climbed by approximately 2,000 to 3,000 summit attempts per year. The Norwegian climbing community has used Galdhøpiggen as the primary domestic objective for substantial periods, and the mountain has functioned as a calibration peak for Norwegians building toward higher objectives in Asia and Antarctica. The summit views toward the Jotunheimen range and the Norwegian fjords are among the most extensive in the country.
