Atlas/Gangkhar Puensum
N° 22
Gangkhar Puensum
The highest unclimbed mountain on Earth.
Difficulty 10/10
Elevation
7,570m
24,836 ft
First Ascent
Highest unclimbed mountain on Earth. Bhutan banned all mountaineering in 2003.
Fatality Rate
—
Permits
Required
Overview
A 7,570-metre peak on the disputed border between Bhutan and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, in the eastern Himalaya. Gangkhar Puensum means "white peak of the three spiritual brothers" in Dzongkha, the national language of Bhutan. It is the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Not the highest mountain that has resisted attempts — the highest mountain that has not been seriously attempted in the modern era.
The mountain was first surveyed by the Royal Bhutanese Geographical Survey in 1922, and the elevation was contested for decades — a 1986 measurement placed the summit at 7,541 metres, later corrected to 7,570 with satellite-based surveying. Four expeditions attempted the mountain between 1985 and 1986, when Bhutan first opened to mountaineering. None reached the summit. All cited a combination of weather, technical difficulty on the upper ridges, and the remoteness of the approach.
In 1994, Bhutan banned all climbing on peaks above 6,000 metres on religious grounds. Buddhism in Bhutan considers high peaks the abodes of guardian deities, and the disturbance of these places has been deemed inappropriate. In 2003, the ban was extended to all mountaineering of any kind. Gangkhar Puensum has been formally closed for over thirty years. The Chinese side of the border is technically open, but the disputed status of the boundary and the political sensitivity of the region have meant that no expedition has been granted access from Tibet.
What Gangkhar Puensum represents is a particular kind of negative space in the Atlas. The mountain exists. Its dimensions are known. Its summit has been photographed from satellites. And it remains, by collective agreement of two governments and several religious traditions, beyond reach. Whether this is permanent will be determined by people who are not yet involved in the conversation.
