Atlas/Kazbek
N° 77
Kazbek
Sacred peak. Prometheus myth.
Difficulty 5/10
Elevation
5,054m
16,581 ft
First Ascent
1868
Douglas Freshfield, François Devouassoud
Greek myth places Prometheus's punishment on Kazbek — chained to the mountain by Zeus. The Trinity Church at Gergeti dates to the 14th century.
Best Season
July–September
Summit Days
3–4 days
Permits
Required
Overview
A 5,054-metre dormant volcano on the border between Georgia and Russia, in the central Caucasus. Kazbek is the third-highest peak in the Caucasus and one of the most visually distinctive mountains of the range. The peak rises directly from the Daryal Gorge — the historical mountain pass that has connected the Russian and Georgian sides of the Caucasus for two millennia — in a near-perfect cone profile. The Georgian name is Mqinvartsveri — "ice mountain" — and the peak holds substantial cultural and religious significance in Georgian Orthodox Christianity. The Trinity Church at Gergeti, built in the 14th century at 2,170 metres on a spur below the mountain, is one of the most photographed religious sites in the Caucasus.
The Greek myth of Prometheus places the titan's punishment on Kazbek — chained to the mountain by Zeus, with an eagle returning daily to consume his liver, which regenerated each night. The myth is recorded in Hesiod and Aeschylus and represents one of the earliest documented mythological references to a specific Caucasian peak. The Georgian Orthodox tradition holds that the cave below the summit, visible from the Trinity Church, was used by hermit monks for retreat in the early Christian era.
The first modern ascent came in 1868 by an English party led by Douglas Freshfield, with the guide François Devouassoud. Freshfield's expedition was the first systematic European mountaineering effort in the Caucasus, and the ascent of Kazbek was one of several first ascents the team completed in a single season. The summit was reached via the southeast face on July 30, 1868. The route remains the standard line today.
The technical difficulty of the standard route is moderate. The climb involves sustained glacier travel, several crevassed sections that have varied with the retreat of the mountain's ice, and a final summit ridge that holds exposure but no significant technical climbing. The route is typically completed over three to four days from the trailhead at the Sno valley. The fatality rate has been low, though the weather variability of the central Caucasus has produced occasional storm-related incidents. Kazbek is climbed by approximately 1,500 summit attempts per year, with the climbing community split between Georgian, Russian, and international expeditions.
