Atlas/Mount Olympus
N° 99
Mount Olympus
Home of the gods.
Difficulty 4/10
Elevation
2,917m
9,570 ft
First Ascent
1913
Christos Kakalos, Frédéric Boissonnas, Daniel Baud-Bovy
Kakalos was a Greek hunter and guide. The summit had been considered, in the popular Greek imagination, to be unclimbable — a continuation of the religious tradition that placed the gods on the upper mountain.
Best Season
May–October
Summit Days
2 days
Permits
Not required
Overview
A 2,917-metre peak in northern Greece, the highest mountain in the country. Mount Olympus is, by any reasonable measure, the most culturally significant mountain in Western civilization. The peak appears in Homer, Hesiod, Aeschylus, Sophocles, and the foundational documents of Greek mythology as the residence of the twelve Olympian gods. The mountain shaped the geographic conception of the divine for the Greek world for over a millennium and continues to hold cultural weight in modern Greek identity.
The summit of Olympus consists of multiple peaks, the highest of which is Mytikas at 2,917 metres. The first ascent of Mytikas in the modern mountaineering tradition came in 1913 by a Greek-Swiss party. Christos Kakalos, a Greek hunter and guide, with Frédéric Boissonnas and Daniel Baud-Bovy, reached the summit on August 2, 1913. The climb predated the formal establishment of Greek climbing infrastructure and required substantial route-finding. The summit had been considered, in the popular Greek imagination, to be unclimbable — a continuation of the religious tradition that placed the gods on the upper mountain. The successful ascent shifted the mountain's cultural position from religious to mountaineering object.
The standard route today follows the eastern flank from the village of Litochoro at 300 metres, with a high camp at the Spilios Agapitos refuge at 2,100 metres. The climb to Mytikas requires sustained scrambling on rocky terrain, with several exposed sections in the final approach to the summit. The technical difficulty is moderate — comparable to the harder Mont Blanc range routes at substantially lower altitude. The fatality rate is moderate; falls on the rocky upper sections have produced consistent casualty incidents over the climbing history of the peak.
The mountain is climbed by approximately 10,000 summit attempts per year. Olympus does not draw the international climbing tourism that the Alpine 4000-metre peaks receive, but the peak holds substantial regional significance. For Greek climbers and for international visitors with cultural interests in the classical tradition, Olympus remains a primary objective. The summit views, on a clear day, extend across the Aegean to the islands of Thessaly and northward to the Bulgarian border.
